SOUTH GOA

Amber hues of a laidback sojourn

With its sun-kissed beaches, lush fields and rich heritage, the region around Palolem beach is a world worth exploring for an intrepid traveller. In fact, it is no less a land of magic than its more celebrated cousins in the State’s northern parts.

Text & Photographs: SHIKHA CHUGH

 

TIf there was one thing that I was sure of it was this – my trip to Goa wouldn’t be the typical ‘Baga, Calangute, North Goa’ circuit. This trip was to discover a different Goa, to soak in the beauty of nature, to bring the heart and the mind in sync, to get in touch with the inner self and to rediscover the power of love!

Half an hour after landing at Dabolim Airport, I was in possession of a rented Maruti Wagon R, driving on the narrow NH 17 towards South Goa. My destination, Palolem Beach! It is such a liberating feeling to drive on unfamiliar roads through unknown towns towards unknown destinations, not knowing what the next bend in the road will reveal!

Since I was in the mood to explore lesser known places in Goa, I took a slight detour on the way and drove through the village of Verna in search of a restaurant to satiate the taste buds. As I followed the narrow winding lanes, I couldn’t help but notice the architecture around me. The churches, the panchayat building, the school, the houses – all reflecting a strong Portuguese influence! I kept driving till I hit a T on the road and found myself staring at a lake straight ahead of me! It was a stunning first view with the afternoon sunlight seeping through the leaves of the surrounding coconut trees and bouncing off the surface of the water. I let the moment sink in and then followed the road along the lake in search of some food. Finally I located ‘Soul Soufflé’, a contemporary yet quaint eating place in the heart of the green expanse around the lake. Though much can’t be said about the food at the restaurant, it was the experience, the drive, the discovery of the lake that made the detour completely worth the effort! I was told later that there was a waterfall close to the lake but just as well that I didn’t see it, else I might have never proceeded towards my destination!

Back on NH 17, driving towards Palolem, I had a sudden urge to drink coconut water. How difficult would it be to get some in a coastal area? Well I would find out soon enough!

The one-hour drive to Palolem through the winding curves and hairpin bends of the Western Ghats was mesmerising. The road, flanked on one side by the mighty hill and on the other by teak and Sal trees, seemed very comfortable in its surroundings. A combination of the sun-kissed dried leaves and lush green leaves gave the forest a pristine look on a lazy quiet afternoon. Driving through the ghats that afternoon seemed like one was in another realm of time. At each curve in the road sat a few Konkani women trying to sell their quota of dry chillies for the day. Some sat atop tables with their legs dangling as the sun’s rays highlighted their makeshift huts, making the moment seem like a picture perfect frame of school girls with no care in the world.

As the time for sunset drew near, I reached the picturesque Palolem Beach! The street leading to the beach was abuzz with foreign tourists, women riding bikes, couples strolling through the shops walking hand in hand, guest houses offering cheap accommodation, locals going about their daily chores; yet it seemed completely different from the North Goa beaches. To experience an exotic and rustic feeling together was quite something. I parked my car and walked towards the beach.

The stunningly beautiful white sand Palolem beach was a hub for foreigners so much so that Indian tourists were conspicuous by their absence! The crescent-shaped beach was packed with restaurants and beach shacks. I allowed myself a moment to absorb the first look of the clear blue Arabian Sea and the stunning beach, protected on either side of the mile-long stretch by jutting rocks. As I walked along the beach, I noticed bright and colourfully painted bamboo beach huts set against the backdrop of lush green coconut trees (Amidst so many coconut trees I was reminded once again that I didn’t come across a vendor selling coconut water throughout the drive to Palolem). I was so taken in by the vibrancy of the beach that I couldn’t decide whether to first walk along and explore it or to look for a hut to stay at night. After taking my time walking and enquiring, I finally zeroed in on a beach hut at the end of the almost 2-km beach at Rs 1,000 a night. The tariff was a steal and the hut extremely comfortable with an attached toilet.

Sunset at Palolem that first evening was one of a kind and that was a sign that this was the beginning of a great holiday! As the sun set behind a cloud in the horizon, its myriad rays seeped out all across the deep blue sky. It was a moment in time – the sun’s rays were streaks of amber, highlighting the sky as if in celebration; as if it was nature’s way of welcoming me to the beach. Instantly all cameras swung into action with a beachful of people trying to capture the moment! The swimmers just stopped and looked at the horizon from the sea and tried to soak in the magic! It was nature at its best!

By the time the moon rose and night fell, the beach became an arc of lights along the crescent as all the shacks lit up! Candlelight dinners by the ocean, the waves touching your feet, gorging on the freshly prepared sea food, red wine, music and the sea breeze – who said it was difficult to be content?
Mornings on the beach started with the roosters crowing cock-a-doodle-doo! I sat outside my shack with a glass of fresh juice, while watching the beach come to life – people walking their dogs, couples heading for a morning jog, fishermen preparing to leave for their catch, a mother with her toddler building sand castles, cows sunbathing, the chirping birds flying from one coconut tree to another, a beach completely abuzz with activity. Although Palolem wasn’t devoid of vendors selling music, clothes, flip flops, offering tourists’ dolphin watch tours, etc., the beach still managed an elegant look.

After basking in the sun the entire morning, looking at the waves and after a sumptuous lunch, it was time for my afternoon siesta. I lay on the bed staring out of the glass window, while the sun flooded my beach hut with varying shades of amber, the colour changing with the changing light of the dipping afternoon sun. A deep sense of calm and content enveloped me. I saw the silhouettes of fishermen with their boats returning back from sea and their families welcoming them.

The setting sun was like a big round amber ball, enveloping the entire beach in its colour – men canoeing against the setting sun, little girls playing in the sea dodging its waves with smiles and laughter, the sea shimmering with the amber rays, the sky changing hues from amber to pink as the sun prepared its final plunge into the sea, the sea soon turned pink and purple reflecting the changing colours of the sky. As I kneel down into the water to capture the setting ball of fire through the ravishing waves, I wonder if the camera can do justice to this simple marvel of nature.

As the sun finally set, I realised that in the excitement of capturing all these moments on camera, I had walked to the other end of the beach. During the long walk back to my beach hut, I was looking forward to dinner on the beach, by the waves again. Star and Moon, the shack owners’ pet dogs gave me company as each sat on either side of me and looked up with expectant eyes, hoping a piece of fish might just fall for the ‘I am so innocent’ looks in their eyes!

Waking up to the sound of the crashing waves, the next day beckoned me to drive out of Palolem and explore the countryside. The hunt for coconut water continued but all I came across was sugarcane juice! Driving through the ghats once again, I looked forward to visiting the Palacio do Deao in Quepem, a small town close to Bali in Goa.

The Palacio was a 213-year-old house built by a Portuguese nobleman who was also the founder of Quepem town. The house was bought by a Goan couple, Ruben and Celia, who worked tirelessly on the conservation and restoration of the house over the last few years. The house was an amalgamation of Hindu and Portuguese architecture and the lush green gardens surrounding the house were simply outstanding. I wanted to curl up in the shade of a tree, with a book in my hand and a bottle of red wine!
The couple had done their best to recreate the ambience of the 18th century Portuguese house. They travelled to the city of Braga in Portugal to get furniture and showpieces to make the house resemble the original as closely as possible. While Ruben gave us a tour of his home (which he opened up without hesitation to strangers), showed us the intricately designed furniture, the priceless stamp and coins collection and shared the history behind The Palacio, his wife prepared a lavish lunch for us. It consisted of a 14-dish spread, including appetisers and dessert, served us at the belvedere overlooking the beautifully tended garden. What a meal that was! Post lunch, which was siesta time for the couple and their family, I walked around the Palacio admiring the house. The sunlight seeped in through the balcony door and shone on the floor of the rooms. I stood looking at the church opposite the house through the balcony and it seemed like time had come to a standstill. Finally, I took a leisurely stroll through its gardens. It must be quite a job maintaining the house, but quite an experience as well living in it! As I bid adieu to the couple I congratulated them on their effort to maintain the house and promised to recommend the place to friends. Their only publicity, they said, was by way of mouth!

On my way back, I decided to visit the Agonda beach and witness the marvel of sunset there. As imagined, it did not let me down! Agonda beach, longer in length than Palolem, was sort of isolated in comparison. The beach huts were still being constructed for the season and the beach actually was deserted.
I ran through the waves, splashing water with my feet, collecting shells, feeling like a child once again. Coconut water, of course, still eluded me and I couldn’t understand for the life of me why there was an abundance of sugarcane juice and a lack of coconut water in south Goa?

After a few days of soaking in the sun and relaxing at Palolem, as I drove to the airport, I gave up my quest for finding coconut water. I knew that as soon as I reached Delhi, I would see vendors along the road with an abundance of coconut water even in the winter! The few days spent in south Goa were just fantastic, the drives through its quaint villages liberating. It was an experience beyond truth; a journey of love purer than white; a journey in search of footprints in the sands of time; a journey to leave behind fresh footprints; a melancholy of sunsets; a dream yet a reality – it was a Goan siesta, a fiesta of life!

 

Travel Tips

Palolem Beach is 2 km from the market town of Chaudi in the South Goan taluka of Canacona, which is about one hour’s drive from the coastal town of Karwar in Karnataka and about 40 minutes from Margao (Main city in South Goa). The easiest way to get to Palolem is to take the train or fly to Margao and pay for a govt-approved fixed-price taxi to Palolem. Fixed-price taxis are available from the train station and from Goa Dabolim Airport at Vasco da Gama.

Canacona is Palolem’s nearest train station, approximately 5 minutes drive away. By road, take a State Transport bus from Margao Bus Stand to Canacona or Palolem. It takes around 90 minutes. If you alight at Canacona bus station, you can take an autorickshaw or taxi to Palolem Beach which is only about 3Km. Palolem is quite small, so easy to explore on foot. Mopeds and bicycles are available for hire on the main street. For stay, there are plenty of beach shacks along Palolem Beach.